Monday 4 July 2011

Jericoacoara

*update: My friend has just discovered that she picked up some parasite from the beach at Jeri, apparently from all the animal feces on the beach. She said that they looked like mosquito bites at first and then long lines grew out of them and they are still really itchy. This is 3 weeks after we were there. Be warned!


The journey
We had an 11am flight from GRU which landed just after 2pm. The pousada had organised a 4x4 to pick us up (Rs500 each way so if you can find people to share with the better! Other option is the bus which goes twice a day). The ride was just over 4 hours long and we took the main road until half an hour out where we turned off towards Praia da Prea (about 15 mins on average road) and then 20 minutes along the beach in the dark. It was really cool and the driver was a really safe driver (not what you would usually say about Brazilian drivers!).

The pousada
We stayed at Vila Bela Vista which is run by an American family but they were away and in their place there was a guy from England and a girl from Canada who's married a Brazilian, looking after the pousada. We had a 2 bedroom suite and they provided a cot for Sophie. The pousada was really lovely - clean, well designed and had a little area for breakfast. You can also eat dinner if you give their chef advance warning. I'ts located about 10 min walk from the main part of town, and they will give you a ride in by horse and cart (during the day) and buggy (in the evening). 

Food
The first night we were too late to eat at the pousada so we went into town and it has such a lovely atmosphere. I know it was the night before the feriado so wasn't as busy. There are 3 main streets and small connecting lanes. We found a photographer and bought some postcards and asked him to recommend a place and he sent us to Tamarindo (next to Mosquito Blue) which became my favourite and Tim adamantly refused to go there for a third or fourth time (we were only there 5 nights..)

Tamarindo - fish, pizza and pasta- my favourite. Located next to Mosquito Blue.
Casa Dela - on Rua Principal down towards the beach. Local food.
Fish restaurant on beach at Praia da Prea. Grilled fish was delicious. Had lunch here on our buggy trip.
Pimenta Verde on S. Fran - sadly only went for our last lunch but the pasta was really good.
Club Vento on the far end of the beach - sandwiches, pasta and rice. A lovely spot for lunch.

There were two other local places we missed out on trying but that were highly recommended.

Chicken and Rice on Rua Principal - but keep walking up, I saw them serving at lunch time
Fish place on Rua S Fran. - only open in the evening


Passeios
Horseride at sunset - organised through our pousada and Jose, our guide, was fantastic. Firstly he carried Sophie with him who fell asleep in first 5 minutes but he could still ride his horse, and guide all the other horses with a click of his tongue. For me, a definite must-do!


Buggy trip out to the Lagoas. We unfortunately were there on a bank holiday weekend so it was pretty busy. We went out early so the first lagoon was empty which was gorgeous and the girls had a wonderful time playing in the water. Lagao Paraíso was lovely too but a little more built up - with a little retaurant and chairs and tables in the water. Lagoa Azul is one where you have to take a little boat out to the restaurant and it was really busy, and the tide was pretty much all the way up so you had to sit in the water. I can imagine how beautiful it would be if there was no one else there! haha, wishful thinking. Some great people watching, especially poses for the camera.


Kitesurfing - Tim took a few lessons but unfortunately the second time the wind conditions weren't good, and the third time the wind was so strong his kite broke and that was the day we were leaving. We saw loads of guys out on the water close to Praia da Prea and they looked amazing. I'm not sure I would have the courage to go out there on the water - maybe if I was 15 years younger. For another lifetime!


Sunset - you can watch from the sunset dune wich is right next to the beach, and you can't miss it as everyone climbs up it just before sunset. There is also a walk you can do to Pedra Furada which is a rock with a hole in it that you can see the sunset through. We decided to late in the day, jumped in a buggy who took us to the other side though we didn't realise we still had to walk about 30 minutes along sand and rocks with the girls, so that's my excuse for missing it and not having a picture of it.



The beach
The main beach is not the prettiest beach - the sand is dark brown and the water is really low and goes out a couple of hundred meters. On the last day I noticed the sand slug things which grossed me out but Sophie and Mia loved it! They could run around everywhere, and make sand castles and splash in all the puddles. There are also alot of dogs and horses on the beach so make sure not to step in any poo!


The lagoons in the dunes are much prettier but there is still alot of horse, cow and dog poo - not that pleasant to hang out in and I had to stop Sophie from drinking the water.




The holiday
I had a great holiday, met some great people, read 4 books (more than i've read all year), had lazy afternoons in the hammock, and tried some great restaurants. Would definitely recommend but don't expect too much from the beach. 


Map of Jeri and Restaurants (from our Vila)










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